What Quarters Are Worth Money? Rare Quarters List 2026
The complete list of quarters that are worth money — key dates, silver quarters, state quarter errors, and W-mint marks — with realistic price ranges.
Last updated July 1, 2026
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Scan Your Quarter NowQuick Answer: Which Quarters Are Worth Money
The quarters worth money fall into a few clear groups: any quarter dated 1964 or earlier is 90% silver and worth at least $5-$6 in melt value; the 1932-D and 1932-S Washington key dates are worth $100 to five figures; the 1950-D/S and 1950-S/D overmintmarks bring $50-$500+; the 2004-D Wisconsin extra leaf and 2005-P Minnesota doubled die state quarter varieties bring $25-$400; the low-mintage 2019-2020 W-mint quarters bring $10-$25+ even circulated; and dramatic mint errors of any year can be worth $50 to several thousand dollars.
Everything else — including nearly all bicentennial quarters, ordinary state quarters, and America the Beautiful quarters found in change — is worth face value. The good news is that checking your quarters takes seconds once you know the dates, mint marks, and varieties to look for, and this guide covers all of them.
A quick rule of thumb: check the date first (1964 or earlier means silver), then the mint mark (W is always worth pulling aside; D or S matters on key dates), then look closely for doubling or anything visually odd about the strike.
The Rare Quarters List
Here are the quarters worth searching for, roughly in order of how often they turn up. Values are typical sold ranges — condition moves prices dramatically within each range.
1932-D Washington Quarter — $100 to $15,000+
The king of Washington quarter key dates. Only 436,800 were struck at Denver in the series' first year, the lowest mintage of any circulating Washington quarter. Even heavily worn examples typically sell for $100-$200, mid-grade circulated coins bring $300-$800, and uncirculated examples run into the thousands. Beware of added mint marks on common 1932 Philadelphia coins — authentication matters at these prices.
1932-S Washington Quarter — $80 to $5,000+
The companion key date, with 408,000 struck at San Francisco. Slightly more available than the 1932-D in high grades, so uncirculated prices are lower, but worn examples still start around $80-$150 and climb quickly with condition.
1943-S Doubled Die Obverse — $100 to $2,000+
A wartime silver quarter with strong doubling visible on the obverse lettering and date. Circulated examples typically sell in the $100-$400 range, with high-grade uncirculated pieces bringing four figures. You need magnification to spot it, but the doubling on IN GOD WE TRUST is distinct once you know to look.
1950-D/S and 1950-S/D Overmintmarks — $50 to $500+
In 1950 the Mint repunched some dies with the wrong mint mark, creating a D punched over an S (and vice versa). Under magnification you can see remnants of the underlying letter. Circulated examples typically bring $50-$150; strong uncirculated coins bring several hundred dollars.
Any Silver Quarter, 1964 and Earlier — $5 to $6+ minimum
Every Washington quarter dated 1932-1964, every Standing Liberty quarter (1916-1930), and every Barber quarter (1892-1916) is 90% silver. Even the most common dates are worth their melt value of roughly $5-$6, and better dates or better condition push values higher. This is the single easiest check: look at the date, and if it says 1964 or earlier, it never goes back into circulation.
1982 and 1983 Quarters in High Grade — $5 to $300+
A sleeper: the Mint sold no uncirculated mint sets in 1982 or 1983, so very few pristine examples were saved. Circulated 1982-83 quarters are worth face value, but genuinely uncirculated examples — especially sharp, mark-free ones — sell for $5-$50, and top-grade certified coins have brought hundreds. Check rolls and old collections rather than pocket change.
2004-D Wisconsin Extra Leaf — $50 to $400+
The most famous state quarter variety. Some Denver-minted Wisconsin quarters show an extra corn leaf, either pointing up ("extra leaf high") or drooping down ("extra leaf low"), beside the corn stalk on the reverse. Circulated examples typically sell for $50-$150; crisp uncirculated coins bring $200-$400 or more, with the extra leaf low generally the scarcer of the two.
2005-P Minnesota Doubled Die ("Extra Tree") — $25 to $300
Dozens of doubled die reverse varieties exist for the 2005-P Minnesota quarter, showing what looks like an extra evergreen tree next to the treeline. The strongest, most obvious doubling brings $50-$300; minor varieties bring $10-$50. A loupe is essential to tell strong varieties from weak ones.
State Quarter Errors (1999-2008) — $50 to $2,000+
The state quarter program's enormous production runs produced plenty of dramatic errors: off-center strikes ($50-$300), quarters struck on nickel or dime planchets ($200-$1,000+), missing clad layers showing copper on one side ($100-$500), and broadstrikes ($20-$100). The 1999 Delaware "spitting horse" die crack is a popular minor variety worth $5-$20.
2019-2020 W-Mint Quarters — $10 to $25+
In 2019 and 2020 the West Point Mint struck just 2 million of each America the Beautiful design — tiny by modern standards — and released them directly into circulation as a treasure hunt. Any quarter with a W mint mark is worth pulling aside: circulated examples typically sell for $10-$25, uncirculated ones more, and 2020 issues with the V75 privy mark carry an extra premium.
Are Bicentennial Quarters Worth Anything?
Here's the honest answer most articles bury: the bicentennial quarter in your change is almost certainly worth 25 cents. The Mint struck more than 1.6 billion copper-nickel bicentennial quarters at Philadelphia and Denver across 1975-1976 (all dated 1776-1976), making the drummer boy design one of the most common quarters ever made. Viral headlines about bicentennial quarters worth millions refer to one-of-a-kind errors or are simply exaggerated.
That said, there are real exceptions worth checking for:
- 40% silver S-mint versions — San Francisco struck bicentennial quarters in 40% silver for collector uncirculated sets and proof sets. These carry an S mint mark and typically sell for $3-$10 each depending on silver prices and finish. They almost never turn up in circulation, but they do surface in inherited collections.
- Clad S-mint proofs — Copper-nickel proofs from 1976 proof sets are worth a few dollars with their mirror finish intact.
- Errors — Doubled dies, off-center strikes, and wrong-planchet bicentennial quarters sell for $50 to several thousand dollars, exactly like errors on other dates.
- Pristine uncirculated examples — A gem uncirculated Philadelphia or Denver bicentennial quarter might bring $1-$5; certified top-grade examples bring more, though grading fees usually eat the difference.
The quick test: no mint mark or a D means copper-nickel and face value in circulated condition. An S mint mark means it came from a collector set and is worth a closer look.
How to Check Mint Marks
The mint mark is a small letter identifying which facility struck the coin, and it can be the difference between face value and four figures. On Washington quarters from 1932-1964, the mint mark sits on the reverse, below the eagle's tail feathers. From 1968 onward, it moved to the obverse, just right of Washington's ponytail, near the date.
- No mint mark — Philadelphia (before 1980; from 1980 onward Philadelphia uses a P). Usually the highest-mintage, most common option.
- D — Denver. Matters most on the 1932-D and the 2004-D Wisconsin varieties.
- S — San Francisco. Key on the 1932-S and 1950 overmintmarks; since 1968, S quarters are proofs from collector sets.
- P — Philadelphia, 1980 onward. Key on the 2005-P Minnesota doubled dies.
- W — West Point, 2019-2020 only. Always worth setting aside.
Use good light and tilt the coin — mint marks on worn coins can be faint. On potential key dates, also check that the mint mark looks properly struck rather than added; counterfeiters have glued or engraved D marks onto common 1932 quarters for decades, which is one more reason high-value coins should be authenticated.
Error Quarters to Look For
Mint errors can make any quarter valuable, regardless of date. These are the main types, from most to least commonly found:
Doubled Die — $20 to $2,000+
The die itself was made with a doubled image, so every coin it struck shows doubling in the lettering, date, or design. Look for crisp, shelf-like doubling — not the flat, shadowy "machine doubling" caused by die bounce, which adds no value. Value depends on how strong and visible the doubling is.
Off-Center Strike — $50 to $300+
The planchet wasn't seated properly, so part of the design is missing and part of the coin is blank. Value rises with how far off-center the strike is — the sweet spot is 40-60% off-center with the full date still visible.
Clipped Planchet — $20 to $100
A straight or curved bite missing from the edge, caused when the blank was punched overlapping the edge of the metal strip or a previous punch. Genuine clips show a subtle metal-flow effect (the "Blakesley effect") opposite the clip — a cleanly cut edge with no flow usually means post-mint damage.
Missing Clad Layer — $100 to $500
Modern quarters are copper-nickel bonded over a copper core. If a clad layer separated before striking, one entire face appears copper-colored. Weigh the coin — it will be lighter than the standard 5.67 grams.
Wrong Planchet — $200 to $2,000+
A quarter design struck on a blank intended for another coin — a nickel, a dime, or even a foreign coin the Mint was producing under contract. The coin will be the wrong size, weight, or color. These are dramatic, unmistakable, and consistently bring strong prices.
Not sure if it's an error or damage?
Snap a photo of both sides and get a fast assessment before paying for grading.
Try the Coin Value Checker →Silver Quarter Melt Value Math
Every 90% silver quarter (1964 and earlier) weighs 6.25 grams and contains 0.18084 troy ounces of pure silver. The melt value formula is simple:
Melt value = silver spot price × 0.18084
- Silver at $25/oz → each quarter is worth about $4.52
- Silver at $30/oz → about $5.43
- Silver at $35/oz → about $6.33
Dealers quote 90% silver coins as "junk silver" at a multiple of face value — for example, "20x face" means a quarter fetches $5. Expect to sell slightly below melt and buy slightly above it; the spread is the dealer's margin.
Remember that melt is the floor, not the ceiling. Before selling any silver quarter as bullion, check whether it's a better date (1932-D, 1932-S, 1936-D, 1937-S) or in high enough grade to be worth more as a collectible coin than as metal.
Grading: When It Pays
Professional grading by PCGS or NGC authenticates a coin, assigns a grade on the 1-70 Sheldon scale, and seals it in a tamper-evident holder. It typically costs $20-$40 per coin plus shipping, so the math only works when the coin's value clearly exceeds the fees.
- Worth grading: 1932-D and 1932-S in any collectible grade (authentication alone justifies it), strong doubled dies and overmintmarks, dramatic errors, Wisconsin extra leaf coins in uncirculated condition, and any quarter you believe could grade MS65 or better.
- Not worth grading: common-date circulated silver quarters worth $5-$7, ordinary bicentennial and state quarters, and lightly circulated W quarters worth $10-$15 — the fee would exceed the premium.
The biggest payoff comes at the top of the grade scale, where one grade point can multiply a coin's price several times over. If you're unsure whether a coin is high-grade enough to justify submission, get an estimate first and compare certified sold prices at adjacent grades.
Where to Sell Valuable Quarters
eBay
The largest market for coins in the $20-$500 range. Photograph both sides in sharp focus, name the variety exactly ("2004-D Wisconsin Extra Leaf Low"), and check completed sold listings to price realistically. Fees run around 13%.
Local Coin Shops
Instant cash and no shipping risk, but expect 60-80% of retail on collectible coins and slightly under melt on junk silver. Best for bulk silver and quick sales; get more than one quote on anything scarce.
Coin Shows
Multiple dealers under one roof means competitive offers in an afternoon. Bring key coins in protective flips and let several tables bid — spreads between dealers can be surprisingly wide.
Heritage Auctions / Stack's Bowers
The right venue for certified key dates and major errors worth $500+. Professional cataloging and a global bidder base achieve the strongest prices, offset by seller commissions and a longer timeline.
Bullion Dealers (for junk silver)
Online and local bullion dealers buy common-date 90% silver quarters at transparent rates tied to spot, usually the best net price for bulk silver with no collectible premium.
Check What Your Quarter Is Worth
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Scan Your Quarter NowValuable Quarters FAQs
What quarters are worth money?
The most valuable quarters include the 1932-D and 1932-S Washington quarters ($100-$15,000+ depending on condition), the 1950-D/S and 1950-S/D overmintmark varieties, any quarter dated 1964 or earlier (90% silver, worth roughly $5-$6 in melt value alone), the 2004-D Wisconsin extra leaf errors ($50-$400+), the 2005-P Minnesota doubled die, and the low-mintage W-mint quarters from 2019-2020 ($10-$25+ circulated). Dramatic mint errors like off-center strikes and doubled dies can add value to quarters of any year.
Which state quarters are valuable?
Most state quarters (1999-2008) are worth face value, but a few varieties command real premiums. The 2004-D Wisconsin extra leaf high and extra leaf low varieties typically sell for $50-$400 depending on condition. The 2005-P Minnesota doubled die (extra tree) varieties bring $25-$300. The 1999 Delaware "spitting horse" die crack brings a modest $5-$20 premium. Beyond named varieties, any state quarter with a major mint error such as an off-center strike or wrong planchet can be worth $50 to several thousand dollars.
Are bicentennial quarters worth anything?
Most 1976 bicentennial quarters are worth exactly 25 cents. Over 1.6 billion were struck at Philadelphia and Denver in copper-nickel, so they are extremely common despite their distinctive drummer boy design. The exceptions are the 40% silver versions struck at San Francisco for collector sets, which are worth roughly $3-$10 each depending on silver prices and finish, and error coins such as doubled dies or off-center strikes, which can bring $50 or more.
What year quarters are silver?
All Washington quarters dated 1964 and earlier are 90% silver, as are Standing Liberty (1916-1930) and Barber quarters (1892-1916). Each contains about 0.18 troy ounces of silver, giving a melt value of roughly $5-$6 at typical silver prices. After 1964, circulating quarters switched to copper-nickel clad. The only later silver quarters are collector issues: 40% silver 1776-1976 bicentennial quarters with an S mint mark and 90% (later .999 fine) silver proof quarters sold in special mint sets from 1992 onward.
How do I know if my quarter is an error coin?
Look for doubling in the lettering or date (doubled die), a design struck noticeably off-center, a straight or curved clipped edge, missing clad layers showing copper color on one face, or a coin struck on the wrong planchet (wrong size, weight, or color). Use a 5x-10x loupe in good light. Be careful to distinguish true mint errors from post-mint damage like dents, scratches, and vise jobs, which add no value. When in doubt, compare your coin against documented examples or scan it with PriceSnap for a quick assessment.
Should I get my quarter graded?
Only if its likely value clearly exceeds the grading cost. PCGS and NGC grading typically runs $20-$40 per coin plus shipping, so it makes sense for key dates like the 1932-D and 1932-S, high-grade silver quarters, dramatic errors, and top-condition Wisconsin extra leaf varieties. It rarely makes sense for common circulated silver quarters worth $5-$7, where grading fees would exceed the coin's value. Grading pays off most when a coin might reach a high uncirculated grade, where small grade differences mean large price differences.
Where can I sell valuable quarters?
eBay reaches the largest audience and works well for coins worth $20 and up; use clear photos of both sides and mention the variety by name. Local coin shops offer instant payment but typically pay 60-80% of retail. Coin shows let you get multiple offers in one place. For rare key dates and high-grade certified coins worth $500+, major auction houses like Heritage Auctions and Stack's Bowers achieve the strongest prices. Common silver quarters sell easily to bullion dealers at a small margin below melt value.
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